Table of Contents

Fidlock 물통 실사용기

물통 하나 바꿨을 뿐인데, 자전거 타는 재미가 살짝 더 올라간 느낌입니다.

최근에 제가 구입한 두 가지 모델, Fidlock Twist Life Set Bottle – 700ml + Bike Base Mount (red)와 Fidlock Twist Set Bottle 750ml Compact + Twist Bike Base (black)의 실사용기를 공유합니다.

🔍 Fidlock 물통이 뭐냐면…

Fidlock 물통은 자석과 기계식 락(Lock)이 결합된 독특한 방식입니다. “딸깍!”하고 붙이고, “비틀!”해서 탈착하는 구조로, 일반 케이지와 달리 흔들림 없이 단단히 고정됩니다.

✅ 구매 구성 및 사양

✨ 사용 후기 – 장점

• 공간 활용 자유: 비틀기 방식으로 풀서스펜션 프레임에도 편리
• 간편 탈착: 장갑을 낀 채로도 빠르게 사용 가능
• 흔들림 최소: 거친 노면에서도 안정적 고정

🤔 아쉬운 점

• 가격: 일반 물통 대비 2~3배 비용
• 전용 물통 필요: 호환성 제한
• 무게: 케이지 대비 약간 무거움
• 세척: 내부 홈으로 관리 시 주의 필요
• 마감 퀄리티: 표면 마감이 약간 거칠어 보였습니다.
• 과도한 수압: 750ml Compact 모델은 물줄기가 세어 입 주위로 물이 튀었습니다. 그리고 물이 기도로 들어가기도 했고요.

🛠 장착 팁

물통 두 개는 앞 삼각형과 시트튜브에 각각 배치해보세요.

이 자전거만 그럴수 있지만 , 검정(750ml Compact) 모델을 세로 방향으로 설치할 경우 물통이 뚱뚱해서 간섭이 생겨 다운 튜브에는 장착되지 않을 수 있습니다.

저는 www.bike24.com 에서 구매 했는데요.
한국에서는 fidlock 의 전 제품을 쉽게 구매하기가 어렵더라고요.
특정 제품들만 수입 해서 팔기때문에 원하는것은 직구를 해야만 했습니다.

GV80 컵홀더 사이즈 (Genesis GV80 cup holder size)

GV80 의 컵홀더 사이즈를 알아보겠습니다.
GV80 의 컵홀더 상단의 너비는 90mm 입니다.

Let’s find out the size of the GV80 cup holder.
The width of the top of the GV80 cup holder is 90mm.

그래서 너비가 85mmm 인 물통을 가지고 가서 넣어보니 다 안들어가더라고요.

So I tried putting a water bottle with a width of 85mm in it, but it didn’t fit.

컵홀더의 하단의 너비를 재기 위해서 어떤 방법을 써야 하나 조금 고민을 했는데, 하단 고무 받침을 뺄수가 있더라고요.
그래서 고무 받침을 빼서 재어보니 80mm 이었습니다.

I was wondering how to measure the width of the bottom of the cup holder, but I found out that I can remove the bottom rubber support.
So I removed the rubber support and measured it, and it was 80mm.

결론

제네시스 GV80 의 컵홀더 사이즈는 하단 80mm 상단 90mm 입니다.
아마 모든 제네시스의 컵홀더가 같지 않을까 싶기는 합니다.

The size of the Genesis GV80 cup holder is 80mm at the bottom and 90mm at the top.
I think all Genesis cup holders are probably the same.

이만 짧막한 정보 공유 했습니다. 마칠께요.

That’s all for sharing some brief information. I’ll end it here.

미드풋 클릿 이란?

페달링 파워를 올리기 위한 방법으로, 또는 통증을 줄이기 위한 방법으로 클릿 의 위치를 새끼 발가락 뼈 보다 뒤쪽으로 이동 시키는 것을 “미드풋 클릿 세팅” 이라고 합니다.

이 신발에서 제 새끼 발가락 뼈가 위치 하는 곳 은 흰색 테이프가 붙어있는 곳 입니다.
그리고 제가 개조 하기 전에는 클릿의 위치를 가장 뒤로 옮겨도 새끼 발가락 뼈 위치 보다는 앞이었습니다.
그러나 클릿 위치를 더 뒤로 이동 시키는 것이 좋을 것 같아 개조하여 클릿 의 위치를 조금 더 뒤로 옮긴 케이스 의 사진 입니다.

이렇게 개조를 해야 미드풋 클릿 세팅이 가능한 신발이 있는가 하면 개조하지 않고도 미드풋 클릿 세팅이 가능한 신발이 있습니다.

미드풋 클릿 세팅이 가능한 신발.

가장 쉬운 방법으로는 미드풋 클릿 세팅이 가능한 신발을 사는것 입니다.

저는 발가락이 매우 긴 편입니다.
그래서 웬만한 신발들은 제 발 기준으로 봤을 때 클릿 조절 범위가 발의 앞쪽으로 치우친 경향이 있죠.

리에뜨 4.0 클릿슈즈 후기(leatt) 의 글에 소개드린 신발은 클릿의 조절 범위가 앞뒤로 넓습니다.
그래서 클릿을 원하는 대로 세팅 할수 있죠.

leatt 외에도 시마노 GE9 처럼 클릿 조절 범위가 발의 중앙으로 설계되어 나온 신발들이 있습니다.
이런 신발들을 구매하면 미드풋 클릿 페달링을 위해 개조할 필요가 없습니다.

하지만 로드 바이크 의 클릿 신발은 대개 범위가 좁습니다.

조절 폭이 좁더라도 이렇게 조절 가능한신발은 그래도 다행입니다.

이런 로드바이크 신발 처럼 클릿 너트가 고정된 방식도 많이 있습니다.
이렇게 고정된 위치만 허용이 되면 아무래도 원하는 위치에 클릿을 고정하는것이 어려울수 있죠.

MTB 신발에 미드풋 클릿 적용하기

가지고 있는 MTB 신발이 다 맘에 드는데 클릿만 조금 더 뒤로 이동 하면 좋겠다 하는 아쉬움이 있다면 클릿 볼트가 체결되는 구멍을 새로 뚫는 방법이 있습니다.

왼쪽의 이미지에서 아래 두 개의 구멍은 드릴로 새로 뚫은 구멍입니다.

이렇게 적당한 위치에 구멍을 뚫고 위와 같은 부품을 활용하여 클릿을 체결해주면 됩니다.

그러면 이렇게 원래의 클릿 조절 범위보다 더 뒤꿈치 쪽으로 이동한 클릿 위치로 페달링을 할수 있습니다.

사실 이렇게 구멍을 뚫어 버리는것이 안정성에 안 좋은 영향을 줄까봐 걱정을 하실수 도 있습니다.
구멍을 뚫지 않은 것보다는 더 약해지기는 하겠지만, 아직 까지는 잘 타고 있습니다.

가능하다면 MTB 에서 미드풋 클릿 세팅을 원하신다면 그렇게 세팅 할수있는 신발을 구매 하시는것을 추천 드립니다.
하지만 많은 사람들이 이렇게 개조를 해서 타고 있는것을 보면 큰 문제는 없을것 으로 생각 되지만, 본인이 잘 판단하시길 바랍니다.

로드 바이크 신발에 미드풋 클릿 적용하기

로드 바이크도 위와 같은 방식으로 할수 있습니다.
하지만 더 나은 방법이 있다면 그 방법을 쓰는것이 좋겠죠.

이런 제품이 있습니다. 미드풋 사이클링 사이트에 가시면 사실수있는데요.
이 제품을 클릿 신발에 체결하면 아래와 같이 됩니다.

원래의 위치보다 한단계 또는 두단계 더 아래에 클릿을 체결할수 있는 너트가 생기게 되는데요.

왼쪽 이미지는 가장 아래로 내린것 이고 (2번째 구멍) 오른쪽 이미지는 1번째 구멍에 가장 앞으로 밀어 놓은 이미지 입니다.

어떤가요? 사실 미드풋 클릿을 세팅해서 라이딩을 해보면 “아… 이건 아니구나~!” 라고 하실수도 있어요.
그런 경우 구멍을 뚫어버렸다면 정말 후회 스러울 겁니다.
이렇게 “미드풋 클릿 어댑터”를 달아서 테스트 라이딩을 해보면 좋을 것 같아요.
그리고 단계가 나눠져 있으니 좋기도 하고요.

결론

클릿을 발의 중앙에 가깝게 세팅해서 라이딩 하는 방법에 대하여 알아 보았습니다.

MTB 의 경우에는 미드풋 클릿 어댑터가 없기 때문에 적당한 위치에 구멍을 뚫어서 클릿 을 체결하는 방법 이 있습니다.
로드 바이크의 경우에는 “미드풋 클릿 어댑터”를 사용하여 클릿의 위치를 뒤꿈치 쪽으로 옮기는 방법이 있습니다.
“미드풋 클릿 어댑터” 는 전 세계 어디든 배송을 해주니 구매하기 어렵지는 않아요.

로드 바이크의 경우 발바닥이 평평하지 않은 경우가 많습니다. 그래서 구멍을 뚫게 되면 클릿이 비스듬해지는 경우도 발생 할수 있어요.
그 이유 때문 에 라도 로드 클릿 슈즈는 구멍 뚫기보다는 이렇게 어댑터를 사용하시기를 추천 드립니다.

These are the shoes that I briefly showed you in the picture in the post “Cleat pedal and shoe compatibility (knee pain)”.
I would like to share the feeling of using leatt 4.0 and information.

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

Fit – leatt 4.0

If you look at the leatt reviews, it is said that the leatt has a wide foot width. I bought it after seeing a lot of reviews like that, but it’s not as wide as I thought.
It’s about the same level as the shoes I’ve worn before.

Of course it’s not narrow. If you look at the Shimano company, there are products with wide feet. It is narrower than the sole of the shoe.
So, it’s definitely wider than normal, but a little narrower than the general wide-shaped last.
In my opinion, if normal is 1 and wide is 2, it has a width of about 1.8.

Cleat Adjustment – leatt 4.0

I bought this shoe because I liked this. Compared to general cleat shoes, the advantage is that the cleat adjustment range is very wide.
As for the cleat shoes I’ve worn before, the cleat adjustment range was limited, such as Shimano for beginners, Northwave, Shimano DX (Shimano DX SH-MP66W), GIRO BERM, and Bont Riot MTB.

There was a part that I had doubts about.
When pedaling with a flat pedal, the pedal is positioned in the center of the foot than expected, but why are the cleats of the cleat pedal biased forward?

I bought it because I wanted to know how it would feel if the cleat was closer to the center of my foot. It was not as comfortable as I thought.
So, the position I eventually found was the extent to which I moved the cleat toward the heel most in other existing cleat shoes. So in the end, I didn’t set the cleat for the purpose I bought these shoes for, but I’m still satisfied. If I do more downhill later, I can move the cleats back.

Walking – leatt 4.0

One of the features emphasized by the manufacturer is walking comfort. It was actually very comfortable to walk. The part where the cleat is fastened is also a little deep, so the cleat doesn’t touch the floor when walking on a flat floor.
The soles of my feet are soft, so it’s nice to walk on them.

Velcro – leatt 4.0

The part I liked when wearing the existing Shimano DX was the part where I covered the shoelace part with a Velcro cover so I didn’t have to worry about the shoelace finish.
leatt 4.0 shoes are a bit inconvenient where you have to tie the shoelaces and then carefully insert the shoelaces into the velcro. However, it is an advantage to be able to hold it more strongly using Velcro.

However, since the shoelace alone can be tightened sufficiently, there was no need to use Velcro to hold the foot more.
So I think it would be comfortable to cover it like Shimano DX.

There is a part I was worried about with Velcro. I thought it would be very uncomfortable if the shoelaces were stuck to the velcro. However, I gave it a higher score for the cleat adjustment range and bought it.

The velcro part was amazing. Doesn’t stick to shoe laces. Besides, the entire area of velcro sticks together. Usually, Velcro is divided into a soft side and a hook side, right?
That’s why they don’t stick together in the same form. The velcro of leatt 4.0 just sticks all the parts together. However, it doesn’t stick very tightly. It’s powerful enough, though.
This part is highly commendable.

Shoelace – leatt 4.0

I’m thinking about changing the shoelaces.
The shoelaces are so tight that it is difficult to loosen the shoelaces when taking off the shoes. I think it would be okay if the shoelaces were a little frayed, but basically, when putting on and taking off the shoelaces, it doesn’t feel like they are pulled like noodles. Just pulling the tongue of the shoe won’t loosen it.
There are some advantages to that as well.
If you want to loosen the front part of the foot and hold only the center part of the foot, pull the shoelace only from the middle part, and you can wear it without tightening the widest part of the foot.

Cleat Shim – leatt 4.0

Since the cleat fastening part is a bit deep, when using Shimano general cleat pedals, pressing down with tolerable force will not allow the pedal to engage.
Cleat shims are essential. Cleat shims are included when purchasing shoes. If this is missing, contact the seller. Required.

If you insert one of these cleat shims on each side, it goes well with Shimano pedals.
The rubber sole of the shoe touches perfectly, and when you release the cleat, you can release it without much resistance.

shoe insole – leatt 4.0

Anti-bacterial treated insoles are included. I do not believe in anti bacterial treatment. Even if there is an ingredient that blocks bacteria, I don’t think that function will remain after being drenched in sweat a few times, getting wet in the rain a few times, and crossing a stream a few times.

The insole is quite thick. If you think these shoes are a bit small for your feet, changing the insole to a thin one would be a good choice.

Volume (cushion) – leatt 4.0

The shoes are pretty fat. I have big feet, but I have a size 44 and set the cleats out so my feet touch the crank when I put my feet in. I have no particular complaints. If you set it to the center, you can ride without difficulty.
And I think that those who choose these shoes will buy them knowing this kind of volume and cushioning.

etc – leatt 4.0

There is a protective cushion inside the peach bone. The shoes I used to use are also of this type. I love this look. It’s actually pretty protective.
The finish on the inside of the shoe to protect the inner peach bone is excellent. This is my favorite part.

결론

My big toe is shorter than my middle foot. The actual size is 270mm. leatt 4.0 shoes are ‘US 10’, ‘UK 44’. It’s 280mm.
I tend to buy shoes with thick wool socks to wear in winter. It fit perfectly.

Actually, I have been interested in this brand’s shoes since 3 years ago, but I have already bought the shoes, so I have been thinking a lot.
I agonized a lot between leatt 4.0 and Shimano’s AM9 product. If you buy Shimano SH-AM903 (Link), you will be satisfied, but I chose leatt, which has a larger cleat adjustment range, and I am satisfied.

leatt 4.0 has a “boa dial” version. I just bought it in shoelace form. After the experience of sand pebbles entering the “Boa Dial” and not working, I avoided shoes with “Boa Dial”, so I just chose shoelaces.
leatt 4.0 was not as easy as I thought when untying the shoelaces (as I wrote above), I should have bought one with a “boa dial” (Link)… I regretted it for a while.
Even if “Shimano DX” or “Shimano AM9” is in the form of tying the laces, when you take off your shoes, only the tying part is untied, and when you take it off, it is loose and comes off.

Overall, the finish is excellent, the width of the foot is appropriate, and it is a shoe that I like in many ways.

Some people say that even if you are short, you can ride a 29-inch bike no matter how tall you are, and height doesn’t matter. It is a story that is both right and wrong.
I’m going to talk about why there is no right answer.

For reference, the content of this post is to explain in more detail the content of 26 vs 27.5 vs 29 mountain bikes in the summary of bicycle wheel sizes

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

29-inch bikes have long chainstays.

29-inch bikes have large wheels. The radius of the wheel is about 370 mm. The radius of a 26-inch bicycle wheel is about 340 mm.
And the wheels on a 27.5-inch bike fall somewhere in between.

The chainstay is the distance from the crank to the center of the rear wheel.
This length is an element that represents the character of the bike well.

26 inch bike

If you look at the geometry of a 26-inch bike, the length of the chainstay will be between 400 and 425mm.

A bike like the image with 26-inch wheels has 400mm chainstays.

The smaller the wheel size, the shorter the bike’s chainstay can be. Of course, you can design a longer chainstay for a 26-inch bike.

27.5 inch bike

Chainstays on 27.5 inch bikes range from 410 to 440.

The NS Bikes Isentric bike in this image has 420mm chainstays.
The wheel size is 27.5 inch.

29 inch bike

How about a 29 inch bike?

Although there are cases where the chain stay is extremely reduced while using a 29-inch wheel, in general, when using a 29-inch wheel, the chain stay has a chain stay length of about 427 to 440. For the hardtail in this image, the chainstay length is 435mm.

Early 29-inch bikes had ridiculously long chainstays. Some bikes have 450mm chainstays.

How Chainstay Length Affects Your Bike

Chainstays have a huge impact on how your bike rides. The biggest factor that distinguishes the personality of a bike is the angle of the head tube, followed by the height of the BB and the length of the chainstay.

Road bikes have chainstays of 410mm or less. Why do road bikes have such short chainstays?
The longer the chainstay, the greater the loss of power. The farther the distance from the power-generating crank to the rear wheel is, the more power is wasted.
However, if the chain stay is too short, the drivetrain may not move smoothly. If it is shorter than 400mm, the chain may be bent and the gear shifting may not be smooth.

Long chainstays on mountain bikes

• Long chainstays on mountain bikes reduce front wheel lift on climbs. You don’t have to waste your energy watching the front wheel lift.
• Even if there is a lot of mud on the wheels, the wheels do not stop and you can ride.
• Increased stability on descents due to the long wheelbase effect

Short chainstays on mountain bikes

• Power loss is reduced.
• You can lift the front wheel easily.
• It is also easy to jump (bunny hop) because you can easily lift the front wheel.

Do you want to run with excitement while bunny hop when a stone or tree branch comes out or when a water path is dug?
And are you short?
Then a 29-inch bike isn’t for you. It is recommended to choose around 26 inches or 27.5 inches.

Relationship between chain stay and height (height)

If you are tall, a slightly longer chainstay is fine. Rather, if you are tall, it is better to have a longer chainstay to prevent the front wheel from lifting on uphill.
However, if you are short and have a long chainstay, lifting the front wheel and bunny hop can be difficult no matter how much you practice. It’s easy to understand why by looking at the image below.

Bunny hop is a process in which the rear wheel pushes the ground with the principle of leverage (if you get used to it, you can do it with any bike…) If the chain stay is long compared to your height, it’s not easy to get used to lifting the front wheel and bunny hop. .

Longer legs and arms allow you to shift your weight more
Even if you don’t shift your weight all the way, you can bunny hop by lifting the front wheel. However, it is not easy to control the amount of weight movement if you are short and can only bunny hop by shifting your weight all the way.
This is because the moment you shift your weight more than the threshold, the bike rolls backwards.
Therefore, it is more difficult for short people to practice their skills using a bike with long chainstays.

conclusion

When using 29-inch wheels, there are two major limitations. The handlebars are taller and the chainstays are longer.

If the handlebars are higher due to the larger wheels, you can use a negative angle stem to direct only the handlebars downward. ( How to lower the handlebar )

However, the chainstay length is the part that can’t be solved.
Longer chainstays don’t matter to racers, but long chainstays aren’t helpful for those who want to practice their skills.

If you ride the mountain for a long time, you get a sense of what the appropriate chainstay length is.
For me (height 180cm), 400mm is too short and I feel that 410mm is the minimum length. 420-430mm feels appropriate, and above 445mm it is too dull and I can’t enjoy it.

If you are a rider who is not tall but wants to practice a lot of skills or want to have fun riding the mountain, I would recommend a 27.5 rather than a 29 inch.

In the image below, it is 27.5 inches on the left and 29 inches on the right.
Chainstay lengths are 418mm and 432mm respectively.

432mm is 29 inches, which is a great length, but if a shorter rider chooses the 29 inches, the long chainstays will make it difficult to practice many skills. If you’re not interested in practicing your skills, you can go with the 29″. However, riding a mountain bike is difficult without practicing your skills.
I hope this article helped you choose a bike.

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

8 inch bike wheel size

8-inch wheeled bikes are not common.
Children’s bikes usually start at 12 inches, so 8 inches can be seen on special purpose bikes.
It looks very small, but in reality it is smaller.

You’ll see a lot of 8-inch wheels on bikes designed for folding like this.
And even if it’s not a bicycle, it’s also the wheel size used on a cart or kickboard.

12 inch bike wheel size

12-inch wheels are often seen on children’s bikes that are just starting out. And it’s also used for adult folding bikes.

It’s light so it’s easy for kids to handle, and its small size makes it easy to carry around.

It can also be used as a foldable bike.
Discontinued, but it is also the wheel size used in Lespo’s easy bike.

14 inch bike wheel size

14 inch wheels are not common. Usually kids ride a 12-inch kid’s bike and then switch to a 16-inch.
Major companies don’t make 14-inch bikes.

But companies like Huffy, which primarily produce children’s bikes, have 14-inch bikes. ( Huffy bike Link)

It is also used in minivelo.
It is not a size that is commonly seen in minivelo.
Bike companies use 14-inch wheels on bikes that either don’t feel small enough when folded, or that the 14-inch looks better in overall proportions.

The wheel size most commonly used in Dahon is usually 20 inches.
In the case of a smaller minivelo, it is 16 inches, and in the case of the image product “Dahon k3”, 14 inches are used. It’s very small.

And the Strida Mini also uses 14-inch wheels.

A regular strida uses 16 inches.
Some people even put 18-inch wheels as a tuning.

If you are curious about “Strida vs Strida Mini”, check out the contents of (Strida vs Strida Mini) 

16 inch bike wheel size

The 16-inch is used a lot for children and is also used as a wheel for adult minivelo.
A child who learns to ride a bike with 12-inch wheels will switch to 16- or 20-inch wheels.
When going straight to 20 inches is a burden, 16-inch wheels can be a good choice.

Bromptons use 16-inch wheels.
16 inches are commonly used even in minivelos that should have the advantage of folding, such as Brompton. Of course, minivelos that are set mainly for speed use 20 inches.

When a tall adult rides on a 16-inch, the wheels look a lot smaller.

20 inch bike wheel size

20 inches should be divided into two sizes.
The wheel (rim) size is small, so the tire thickness is thick, and the size is large, so the tire thickness is thin.

small 20 inch – etrto 406mm

These wheels are used on BMX and standard minivelo or children’s bikes.

It’s a size that even adults can ride without difficulty, and it’s not rare, so it’s easy to get parts because it’s a regular 20-inch.

Big 20 inch – etrto 451mm

This wheel is a very rare wheel size, so it is not easy to find parts. Even compatible parts may not suit your taste.
This standard, which is etrto 451mm, is mainly used in BMX racing or used in minivelo racing minivelo.
The rim diameter is large and the tires are thin like a road bike.

24 inch bike wheel size

The 24-inch wheel is for elementary school students or women who are under 150 cm tall.
However, women who are less than 150cm tall do not choose this size because they do not want to ride bicycles that are considered children’s.
However, if your height is less than 150, we strongly recommend this wheel size.
And people who enjoy extreme riding like BMX bikes also prefer this wheel size.

26 inch bike wheel size

26-inch wheels were the standard size for mountain bikes from the 1980s through the mid-2010s. It’s a size that looks too small now, but I rode the mountain well with this bike.
There are still bikes with 26-inch wheels these days, but they serve a slightly different purpose.

These days, the use of 26-inch wheels is used on bicycles for a little extreme riding.
Or as a bike for short people.

I mentioned above that 24 inches is a good size for women under 150 cm.
I would like to say that 26 inches is a good size for those under 160 cm tall.
I’m 180cm tall and ride a 26″ bike, the bike wheels are very small for my height.

If you are tall but have small bike wheels, one of the typical symptoms is that if you set the appropriate handlebar as shown in the image, the handlebar rises up even though the handlebar is lower than the saddle.

27.5 inch bike wheel size

It is the middle size between 26 inches and 29 inches.
Many brands use 27.5 for shorter people in the category of mountain bikes.

Of course, the trend hasn’t been decided yet.
There are also brands that use 29-inch wheels to create a posture that allows short people to ride.
On the other hand, if you are not tall, there are brands that use 27.5 wheels, reduce the suspension a little, and make a lot of difference in geometry.
To be sure, 27.5 wheels are halfway between 26-inch and 29-inch wheels.

29 inch bike wheel size

Since time immemorial, Grandpa Gary Fisher has been talking about the need for 29-inch wheels.
Then he actually built a 29-inch wheel bike. It was commercially unsuccessful. So it ended up being acquired by Trek.

These days, if there is no special reason, ride 29 inches.
The wheels are incredibly large. It’s also hard to deal with.
I think 29 inches will fit well for most people if they are taller than 170. (if you have power)
Mountain riding courses are very rough and irregular. In that situation, big wheels work.

It’s a problem that the bike gets heavier when the wheels get bigger, but it’s a bigger problem that the bike gets bigger. That’s why the weight shift has to increase.
So it takes more time to get used to the bike.

650B bicycle wheel size

The 650B size is the same as the current 27.5. However, before the 27.5 standard came out, this size was used as a size for short women riding road bikes.
I still think it’s a good choice.

700C bike wheel size

Standard road bike wheel size.
700C is 28 inches in inches.
Road bikes don’t have wheel size choices. It’s just a 700C ride.
Except, of course, for time trials or triathlons.

conclusion

road bike

Since road bikes are fixed at 700C, you can use 700C unless there are special circumstances. If you want less wind resistance or are short, you can use 650B.

mountain bike

For mountain bikes, it’s a bit vague. There is also a feeling that it seems like a gimmick.

But after riding all 26 vs 27.5 vs 29, there is definitely a difference.

The conclusion I came to is this.
If you want extreme fun, you’re right to ride the 26-inch.
If you want lightness, it’s also right to ride 26 inches.
However, the advantages of 29 inches are clear. It has a good ability to run with a sense of stability on rough rough roads.
However, in motions that give cute fun, such as bunny hops and manuals, there is definitely a slow feeling.
A 29-inch bike is much bigger.
Nevertheless, it is recommended to use 29 inches as the main and add 26 inches when you want fun riding after getting used to riding.

And, if you are worried about choosing between 27.5 and 29 inches on a mountain bike
People who shouldn’t ride a 29-inch bicycle If you read this article, it will be helpful.

general riding

If it is neither a road bike nor a mountain bike, it is recommended to match your height unconditionally.
First of all, within the size range suitable for your height, we recommend choosing a smaller size if you want a more cute and agile riding taste, or a larger size if you want long-distance constant speed.

It’s good to think of bike speedometers as “wired speedometer” / “wireless speedometer” / “GPS speedometer” / “smartphone speedometer”.
I think it would be nice to think about what each one is and which one is right for you.

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

wired speedometer

Wired speedometers measure the number of times a wheel rotates.
That’s why there’s a magnet attached to the spokes of a bike wheel. A sensor is attached to the frame (fork).
A magnetic sensor attached to the wheel generates a signal each time it rotates.
This signal is passed to the speedometer, which calculates the signal and displays the bike’s current speed.

Because they are mechanically operated, bike wired speedometers are relatively simple, reliable, and long battery life speed measurement tools.
However, installation and maintenance can be a bit complicated as cabling is required.

wireless speedometer

Wireless speedometers can be divided into two categories.
The first is a wired speedometer like the one above that only removes wires (past general wireless speedometer), and the other is a method using a gyroscope (latest wireless speedometer).

General wireless speedometer in the past

The old wireless speedometers were just the wires removed from wired speedometers.

These products do not have wires, so they display the speed through wireless signal transmission. A lot of signal interference occurs during this signal transmission process.
So, if you use this speedometer when running at night with the lights on, there will be speed errors due to signal interference. Riding distance is also a problem.

In addition, this method has the inconvenience of having to change the battery in both the computer (display) and sensor because the battery goes into the sensor.

The only plus is that there are no wires.

gyroscope wireless speedometer

A gyroscopic wireless speedometer is a tool that measures the speed of a bike without using a Global Positioning System (GPS). These wireless speedometers mainly use accelerometers and gyroscopes to measure speed.

An accelerometer is a sensor that detects the bike’s acceleration. Speed is calculated by measuring the acceleration that occurs when the bike accelerates or decelerates. A gyroscope is a sensor that detects the rotational speed of a bike. It calculates the speed by measuring the angular velocity according to the rotation of the bike.

A wireless speedometer displays your speed by attaching a sensor to a key part of your bike and transmitting data wirelessly. These speedometers work by connecting to a smartphone or bike speedometer computer, usually via Bluetooth or antenna. Users can check speed and other information from connected devices.

Wireless speedometers are smaller, easier to attach to your bike, and can provide accurate speed measurements even in areas with weak GPS signals. Also, the battery life may be longer because the GPS function is not required. However, due to the use of accelerometers and gyroscopes, accurate measurements can be difficult at constant speeds without acceleration or rotation.

gps speedometer

A GPS speedometer is a bike speedometer that utilizes GPS (Global Positioning System) signals. Since GPS provides location information through a network of satellites, a GPS speedometer uses satellite signals to measure the bike’s speed.

A GPS receiver calculates speed by receiving satellite signals and measuring the distance to those satellites. Speed is calculated as the rate of change of position over time, which the GPS speedometer displays to the user.

A GPS speedometer is convenient because it can measure speed only with GPS signals without the need to attach additional equipment or sensors to the bike. Also, because GPS technology is relatively accurate and stable, it generally provides reliable speed measurements.

However, it is important to note that accuracy may be reduced in environments where GPS signals are not properly received or in terrain where the location is obscured by tall buildings or trees. Also, since a GPS speedometer needs to receive a signal, the strength and stability of the signal may be affected.

And because it uses a lot of battery, be sure to charge the battery after one or two rides.
In general (depending on the device), GPS speedometers, in addition to speed, also have a navigation feature that stores a GPS log to help you follow routes not taken. – It’s the biggest reason I use a GPS speedometer.

smartphone speedometer

요즘에는 “스트라바” 라는 앱을 사용하여 스마트폰으로 라이딩 로그를 기록 하기도 합니다. 속도계로 사용하기도 하지요.
“스트라바” 외에도 속도 측정해주는 GPS 속도계가 앱으로 출시 되어있습니다.

스마트폰의 GPS 기능을 활용하면, 내장된 GPS 수신기를 통해 위치 정보를 추적하고 이를 기반으로 속도를 계산할 수 있습니다. 자전거를 타고 이동하는 동안 스마트폰을 자전거에 고정하거나 가방에 넣고 사용하면 됩니다.

스마트폰 앱 중에는 전용 자전거 속도계 앱도 있지만, “스트라바” 와 같이 GPS 기능을 활용하는 맵 앱이나 운동 추적 앱 등도 속도 측정 기능을 제공할 수 있습니다. 이러한 앱들은 GPS 신호를 사용하여 위치와 속도 정보를 수집하고, 시각적으로 사용자에게 표시합니다.

스마트폰을 이용한 속도계는 휴대성과 편리성이 뛰어나며, 추가적인 장비나 센서 없이도 사용할 수 있습니다. 다만, GPS 신호의 강도와 안정성에 따라 정확도가 달라질 수 있으므로, 실내나 GPS 신호가 약한 지역에서는 정확성에 주의해야 합니다.

conclusion

I used to use only a wired speedometer as a very old bike speedometer. The wireless speedometer was not used because of signal interference.
Then, I also used a gyroscope-type wireless speedometer, but I didn’t use it because I felt that the speed came out a little strange.

In my case, I use three things recently: a GPS speedometer, a wired speedometer, and a smartphone speedometer.
There are often people who say that the GPS speedometer has a lot of errors or bounces, but the ASCEN GPS (Link) I use has never had a GPS error, probably because it is a product of a company specializing in GPS.

A speedometer is meaningless on a mountain bike because you don’t need to know your current speed. Instead, it is important how many kilometers the riding distance is and how far you have come in the riding log. And when there is something to track other logs, the function to save and follow the GPS is meaningful.

In addition, it is ridiculous to mount a smartphone on a ride that has a lot of impact from up, down, left, and right, such as on a mountain bike.

So when I ride a mountain bike, I ride with only a GPS speedometer.
This GPS speedometer also has a navigation function to view and follow other people’s saved logs.

A wired speedometer is standard on road bikes. It’s a movement that I’m curious about the current speed.
I only ride with a GPS speedometer on long rides.

Recently, I’m trying to use “strava”, so I often try to ride with my smartphone.

In this way, the measurement tool is different depending on the riding. However, wireless speedometers are not recommended.
Please refer to it and put on a speedometer that suits you well.

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

Block flies while riding a bike – Kloops

There’s a company called Kroops (Link). It is said that they started making goggles like the photo in 1947 while making windproof goggles for horse racing. (story)

It seemed to be used a lot when skydiving.
In my case, I usually wear sports sunglasses during the day, but in the evening, I just wear glasses.
However, the time when flying insects appear intensively is also the time when the sun goes down.
(Of course, bugs get into your eyes during the day, but…)

The first time I used it was 10 years ago. It was all worn out so I bought a new one.

Kroops VFR (OTG – OVER THE GLASSES)

Kroops has a wide range of products, including sunglasses.
If you go to the cycling category (Link), there are 6 products as above.
If you don’t wear glasses, you can just do whatever you like, but if you wear glasses, you can buy “VFR (OTG – OVER THE GLASSES)”, a product of “OVER THE GLASSES”.

It feels like this. The downside of sweating too much is that you get wet.
And it leaves marks on the forehead and cheeks. So I put a buff on it and put Kloops on top of it.
The product pictured above was bought 10 years ago. Like the image goggles below, there are metal ventilation holes on both sides.
In fact, it just needs to be perforated, so I recommend a product that is not made of metal.
This part has faded due to moisture. It rusts.

conclusion

For those who don’t ride bicycles, when they hear that flying insects get into their eyes, they ask, “Are your eyes really big?” You may think.
Surprisingly, flies often get into the eyes.
If a bug gets into your eye, it’s not easy to get it out. Even taking it off is uncomfortable.

Some people say that wearing glasses prevents them, but glasses are not very useful.
Insects rarely get into the eyes when riding a bicycle in the mountains, but they do get into the eyes especially near riversides or lakes.

If you are a person who rides a bicycle to work, you might want to give it a try. Because it’s not very expensive.

However, after severely injuring the ITB ligament in the fall of 2020, I became more interested in fitting.
Before getting injured, I was very interested in the difference in geometry of the bike, but since it hurts, I’m looking for a fitting.
So I went to a fitting company and got a fitting.

At the same time, I came to think that it is not good to have a narrow pedal width.
And because the calves are crooked legs, there were more things to worry about.
I’m going to talk about the process of finding the right pedal width.

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

What is a Pedal Extender?

A pedal extender is a product that moves the pedals of a bicycle away from the bicycle.
Theoretically, the closer the pedals are to the bike, the better.
This will reduce air resistance and eliminate power loss.
However, in some special situations it may be better to use a pedal extender.

Let me throw out a question.
When measuring distances from pedals and bicycles in MTB and road bikes, is the distance the same?
no. MTB and road bikes have different pedal distances. The measured value of this part is called “Q-Factor”.
(Exactly, the distance to the part where the pedal is inserted)

The pedals on a road bike are much closer to the bike. Roughly 15mm per side is close.
So which one would be the right position?
There is no right answer. Each person’s skeleton is different, and it is different due to various factors such as muscles and flexibility.

However, it is usually known that the left and right positions of the pedals are determined based on the pelvic bones, and additionally, they are set differently according to the angle at which the legs are located in the pelvis (Q-Angle).
(It also depends on whether it is “O-legged” or “X-legged”)
Why?
This is because the power to press the pedals is most efficient when the pelvis, knees, and feet are in a straight line.
This is because pressing at an angle that is not vertical wastes force and causes pain.

Q-Factor – Road Bikes and Mountain Bikes

The Q-factor of a road bike is around 150mm.
(Source: SHIMANO 105 HOLLOWTECH II Crankset 2×12-speed )
The Q-factor of a mountain bike is around 180mm.
(Source: SLX HOLLOWTECH II MTB Crankset 178 mm Q-Factor 1×12-speed)

So, if you put 15mm pedal extenders on both sides,
The distance between the feet of the mountain bike and the road bike is the same.

I thought 290mm was suitable for me as the distance between the pedals.
So, taking the case of a road bike as an example, 150 + 70 * 2 would be 290mm.
With this calculation, I tried attaching a pedal extender.

What about mountain bikes?
Since the Q-factor is 180, each pedal is 55mm, so 180 + 55 * 2 = 290mm.
Is the position of the pedals the same for a mountain bike without extenders and a road bike with 16mm extenders?

How to properly fit a bowleg?

I have very bowleg . This is the case on the right in the image above.
If you’re a bowleg like me, the narrower the pedals, the more your knees and feet move away from vertical.
The wider the pedal, the closer it gets to vertical.

If you think about it, bowleg seems to be easier to solve. I don’t think it’s easy to solve the problem if it’s an X-leg. I’m not a fitter and I’m not X-legged, so I’d better not comment on how an X-legged person might go about solving this problem.
However, what I feel when I ride a road bike with a narrow pedal width, as I am a bowleg and have a wide pelvis, is that the blade side of my foot (little toe side) is pointing downward. And then I feel my knees go out. The more power you give it, the more so.

So the first thing I tried was the cleat wedge. It was an attempt to get rid of the feeling of the feet tipping outward, and it was quite successful.
After putting in 2 wedges, I felt that the soles of my feet were level.
However, even with this setting, the knees were not comfortable if I applied too much force.

So I tried attaching a pedal extender. After adding pedal extenders and wedges, I felt that my knees were much more comfortable.

Find the right Q-Factor

If you stand up, put your feet together, and drop the weight vertically across your pelvis, knees, and feet, your feet will of course be narrower and your pelvis will be wider.
(This picture shows the legs of the bowleg above slightly spread.)
Spread your legs little by little and find the point where your pelvis, knees, and feet are close to vertical. As you adjust the width of your feet, the width of your feet where your pelvis, knees, and feet are perpendicular to the vertical line as much as possible should be the width of your pedal.

Then we have a distance of 55mm per pedal, so in my example, 290mm is the appropriate pedal width and 55mm long per pedal, so 290mm – (2*55mm) = 180mm.
It’s pretty much the same as the normal Q-Factor on mountain bikes.
After this calculation came out, the question of the past was resolved.
I’ve been riding mostly mountain bikes for 20 years and never got sick, but the reason why I got sick after riding hard on road bikes.
So, even for road bikes, I ignore efficiency and air resistance, and just ride with the same settings as MTB.
Of course, if you listen to the players, they say that road bikes have completely different pedaling methods, so you shouldn’t do the same settings. They say that the way they use power is different. However, I made this choice because I didn’t have the time or the desire to be so immersed in road bikes.

One more thing can be seen from the picture above. When you spread your legs apart, the soles of your feet face outward.
So, even if the bottom of the shoe is completely horizontal, it causes the feeling that the foot is tilted outward when the foot is spread apart. In this situation, what would happen if the feet were perfectly level and the ankles were angled left and right? Your knee will be pushed out.
A wedge was also needed to prevent this phenomenon.

Some shoes have the foot deliberately tilted outward.

Some manufacturers intentionally tilt the foot outward.

It was created based on the theory that if the foot is tilted outward, in the case of X-legged people, the knee does not fall inward and is supported. I think this is the worst setup for bowleg people.
If the bowleg, where the knee goes out, wears these shoes, the knee goes out more and causes pain.
One of the shoes I own has one that leans out like this. Even the slightest tilt is enough to be felt and cause pain.

Pedal extender purchased from AliExpress

I bought it on Ali Express.
Most of them came in 16mm or 20mm length, so I bought the 20mm and then bought the 16mm from another company.

The image on the left is a “Risk” (link) product that works normally among pedal extender products.
The image on the right is from a poor quality company.
Just by looking at it, you can see the difference in the diameter of the thread circumference.

As shown on the right, the circumference of the screw thread was narrow, so no matter how hard I tightened it, it kept coming loose.

I installed a narrow threaded pedal extender and the crank broke.

There are some good, very precise pedal extenders on AliExpress, but I bought it roughly and threw away one crank.

conclusion

Most don’t care about the Q-Factor. But what if you were pedaling 80 times a minute while riding a bicycle, or 4800 times an hour, while pressing the pedals non-vertically?
It is likely to cause pain.

You can go to a fitting place and measure it precisely and calculate the desired pedal distance.
However, after fitting, it seemed that those values are important, but the most important thing is to find the optimal value by endlessly repeating corrections with your feelings.

In the case of pedal extenders, products are produced only in 16mm and 20mm. So, if you want to find the level of detail you want, it would be helpful to look at the pedals of a company called issi.
I couldn’t find the homepage link, so I’ll just write down the Instagram (Link)

This article is for real, real beginners, so I will write it easily. And this article is not intended to give you the right answer. I would like to give you the knowledge you need to know to determine which choice will be a good choice for you.

한국어 : (Link) / english : (Link)

MTB vs Road What’s the difference?

Let’s start with the very basics.
A mountain bike is literally a bicycle that is specialized for riding a mountain bike.
A road bike is a bike designed for riding on the road.
Let’s take a look at each of these differences.

MTB has thick tires.

Due to the nature of mountain bikes that have to run on mountains, they have thick tires.
In addition, the shape of the tire also has rubber bumps. This is to secure traction on dirt roads or stone roads. Instead, because of the high friction on the road, the speed is about 3 to 5 km/h slower than that of a road bike.
When you run long distances, the amount of stamina consumption also makes a difference.

The ratio of MTB gear is wide and the road is dense.

On a mountain bike, the pedaling feel changes dramatically with each gear change. On level ground, you may not be able to find the right gear ratio for you by shifting gears. Mountain bike gears make it easy to climb uphill.
On the other hand, road bike gear ratios are very tight. A single gear change doesn’t make a huge difference to your pedaling.
Therefore, it is a structure that can achieve the best pedal efficiency by finding the optimal gear ratio on a flat surface.
Therefore, in order to cover the limitations of the rear derailleur that needs to be compact, the crank side (also in the front) has a derailleur.
Still, on very steep climbs, you may have to tow because the gear ratio isn’t good enough.

The shape of the handlebar is different.

Road bikes can hold the handlebars in three ways. A mountain bike, on the other hand, can only hold the handle one way unless you have a separate “bar end” attached to it. If you have a bar end, you can steer in two ways.

How to grip a road bike

top grip

How to hold the top.
This grip has the advantage of maximum comfort.

hood grip

This is the most common type of grip.

drop grip

This is the position you hold when you are in a position to reduce air resistance or when you are braking a lot on a downhill.

How to hold a MTB grip

normal grip

If you don’t have a bar end, you’ll almost always hold it in this position.

bar end grip

This is the posture you hold when you want to change your posture, such as uphill or on a bicycle road.

As you can see in the image above, the basic position on a mountain bike is to be very comfortable on the brakes. You can hit the brakes at any time.
However, in the case of road bikes, the most comfortable position for holding the brakes is “drop”.
In the case of the “top”, it is not possible to hold the brake, and in the case of the “hood”, it is not comfortable to hold the brake, and when several fingers are raised on the brake lever for strong braking, it is often vulnerable to impact because there are not enough gripping fingers.
Since the thing that takes the most time on a road bike is the “hood”, it’s much more comfortable on a mountain bike when it comes to holding the brakes.

In fact, personally, I think that holding the “hood” is very vulnerable to sudden braking situations.

I ride by holding the lever like this, but when the second and third fingers are on the top of the brake lever, braking is difficult.

Mountain bikes are heavy. Road bikes are lightweight.

Mountain bikes are tough overall. It has the purpose of enduring any unpredictable shock.
On the other hand, road bikes are strong against expected impacts and have strong parts to maximize power efficiency.

Which bike should I buy?

Okay, now let’s talk about what we really want to do.
So far, we have looked at the functional differences between MTB and road bikes. Let’s see which choice you have to make, either from the user’s point of view or from the bike’s point of view.

Emotional difference between MTB and road bike from the point of view of the bike

MTB

MTB can go anywhere. Anything can be done. The brake performance is good, and if you take a little weight, you can cover all of them with one unit. “Heavy stability” is an advantage.

road bike

The advantage of a road bike is the feeling of zero resistance that only road bikes can feel when riding on smooth roads. You can move far with very little power, and the moment you move forward with power, you can get a creepy feeling like running on ice or flying.

Selection criteria from the user’s point of view

So what should I choose? It would be useful to distinguish a few cases.

• I want to ride a bike in the mountains
• I want to join the road bike club

If you fall under the above two cases, you don’t have to worry at all. You just have to buy the bike that fits.

• I want to ride a bicycle in the mountains => mountain bike
• I want to join the Road Bike Club => Road Bike

But I think most people don’t even know this.
How should I choose in that case? Let’s set out some guidelines.

Who should buy a road bike

• A person who wants to run faster than anyone else and is greedy for competition
• People who want to ride a bicycle mainly on bike paths (or roads for cars)
• Someone who is flexible and has good core strength
• A person who will only ride without any interest in the action of riding a bicycle and lifting the front wheel
• People who are fascinated by the design of road bikes

Who should buy a mountain bike

• A person who has a very uphill road near his house
• People who want to run even in the rain
• People who just want to ride a bike down a sidewalk or a few stairs
• People who want to enjoy leisurely riding while watching the scenery
• People who want to ride a bicycle and ride on dirt roads
• People who are fascinated by the design of mountain bikes

So what about gravel, which is neither mountain bike nor road?

These days “gravel” is growing in popularity.
It’s a bike that’s halfway between MTB and road.

I have 5 bikes. If the number of bikes was a little less, and commuting, I think I would have added one gravel.
However, gravel satisfies neither side because of the nature of the bike, which is neither mountain bike nor road.

Let’s say you choose a gravel as your only bike.
If you go to a road riding competition because your skills improve later, but no matter how hard you try, if you can’t make it to the top of the rankings, you’ll think it’s because it’s a gravel bike, right?
Or, if your skills improve later and you decide to go out on a mountain bike ride, will you be able to enjoy and ride the mountain course properly with gravel? Not at all.
Riding a mountain on a gravel is “able to ride”, not “enjoying mountain riding”.
Of course, if commuting by bike is your main purpose, gravel is great too.

And which one is more like a gravel, a MTB or a road bike? When I thought about it, I think it’s closer to a road bike.
I can’t do it at all when I think about whether it can cover the use of MTB with gravel.
So, can gravel cover the use of road bikes? If you think about it, it seems possible to some extent.
Then there are only two reasons to choose gravel over road.
That you can fit a little thicker tire on it. And the probability that the foot touches the front wheel is slightly lower than that of the road bike or does not reach it.
(There are differences in gear ratio, geometry, etc., but accepting those parts)
If this advantage comes to you, gravel can be a great alternative.

conclusion

I’m not sure if this article helped you decide whether to get your first bike for MTB vs road.
Mountain bikes and road bikes are completely different personalities.
Road bikes value pedaling efficiency and speed, while mountain bikes value control and braking.

20 years ago, the beginning of a bicycle was unconditionally MTB. These days, most people are starting out with road bikes.
In a way, I wonder if “looking cool” has a strong effect on the process of entering leports.
Twenty years ago it was a time when riding a mountain bike looked great. How are you now? Now is the time to take pretty pictures on your road bike and post them on “Instagram”. I also go to a pretty cafe.

You need to look at your own inclinations. I can’t take many pictures when I’m riding a mountain bike.
After having fun riding, only joy remains.
Road bike riders wear very expensive clothes and take care of their bodies before riding.
Mountain bike riders don’t wear expensive clothes because they often tear.
Riding right after the initiation will not be so extreme, but it seems certain that the points of enjoying MTB and road bikes are different.

To conclude in one line,
“MTB” if you like thrills, “road bike” if you have a strong desire to compete, and “gravel” if you are not interested in thrills and do not have a strong desire to compete. ^^